As the newly emerged winter sun cast its golden glow over the rolling hills of Suttons Bay, our team from Oryana Community Co-op eagerly approached the charming creamery of Leelanau Cheese. The inviting aroma of freshly made cheese greeted us, promising a journey into the rich traditions and passionate artisans within.
-
- Joshua Hall and Gary Smith transfer cheese curds.
-
- Gary Smith carefully oversees the cheese curds as they are precisely separated, ensuring the perfect texture and consistency.
-
- Curds are weighed down , packed, and consolidated for the molding process.
-
- The freshly formed cheese curds are carefully pressed into molds, shaping them into their signature perfect circles.
-
- Once formed, the cheese is trimmed, and ready for the cheese cave!
-
- Nothing goes to waste! The leftover whey, a natural byproduct of cheesemaking, is collected by local farmers to nourish their animals.
Our hosts for the day, Gary Smith and Joshua Hall, are the heart and soul of Leelanau Cheese. They took over the creamery in 2021, but their journey in dairy began long before that. Both are Michigan State University alumni with deep roots in the world of cheese. Gary, holding both Bachelor’s and Master’s Degrees in Food Science, honed his skills at the MSU Dairy Plant, working his way up through roles in quality assurance and food safety. Joshua, an award-winning cheesemaker, spent over a decade leading dairy manufacturing at MSU’s Dairy Foods Complex, earning high honors from the American Cheese Society and achieving the prestigious title of Certified Cheese Professional. Taking over Leelanau Cheese wasn’t just a business move for Gary and Joshua—it was a calling. The creamery was originally founded in 1995 by John and Anne Hoyt, who built its reputation on artisanal methods and a commitment to quality. The Hoyts entrusted Gary and Joshua to carry on their legacy, confident in their expertise and love for the craft.
As we watched the cheesemaking process unfold, it was impossible not to be captivated by the meticulous care that goes into their signature cheeses. The Raclette, a semi-soft, washed-rind cheese, is aged in a naturally cooled cave—affectionately called the “hobbit abode”—where it’s turned and brushed daily with a special brine. This labor-intensive process develops the cheese’s complex, nutty flavors and distinctive natural rind, a key difference from other aged cheeses that are stored in wax or plastic. Meanwhile, their Fromage Blanc, a creamy and versatile cheese, is crafted in small batches and infused with rich flavors like black truffle, peppercorn, and fresh herbs, giving each variety a taste of Northern Michigan’s bounty.
But their commitment to craftsmanship doesn’t stop at the cheese itself. Sustainability is woven into every step of the process, starting with the milk, which is sourced from trusted local dairy farms—Brinks Family Creamery in McBain and Norwood Centennial Farms in Charlevoix. By working closely with these small-scale, family-run operations, Leelanau Cheese ensures that only the freshest, highest-quality milk goes into their cheeses while also supporting the local agricultural community. Even the byproducts of cheesemaking serve a purpose—whey, the nutrient-rich liquid leftover from the process, is picked up by local farmers and used as feed, turning what might be considered waste into nourishment for livestock.
-
- The infamous cheese cave!
-
- Inside the cheese cave, where the aging process occurs.
It’s no surprise that Leelanau Cheese has made a name for itself, even winning Oryana’s Cheese Madness competition in the past! Their Raclette—a crowd favorite for its creamy, nutty, and perfectly meltable texture—has been a standout among cheese lovers. And if you haven’t experienced the magic of melted Raclette yet, now’s your chance! Join us at Oryana West on March 15th for this year’s Cheese Madness celebration, where you can savor the delicious flavors of Leelanau Cheese and cast your vote for this year’s champion.
As we wrapped up our tour, it became clear that Leelanau Cheese is more than a creamery—it’s a living, breathing example of tradition, innovation, and pure passion. And the best part? You can experience it for yourself. The creamery welcomes visitors, offering a behind-the-scenes look at the artistry behind each wheel of cheese. Whether you’re a devoted cheese lover or simply curious about the process, a visit to Leelanau Cheese is a sensory experience worth savoring.
